Mardi, 7 of septembre of 2010

Archives from month » octobre, 2009

WHY or WATALYS ?

Picture of the "green" new yacht by Hermès and WallyYachts have long been representative of the luxury industry, as the most luxurious good that can be bought and that only millionaires can afford. However, they have also carried the image of polluting means of conveyance and as the evil side of sailing. Those days are over. Well, partly over.

The French luxury brand Hermès, in association with the Italian yacht constructor, Wally, released this year their new project: WHY (standing for Wally-Hermès-Yacht). This masterpiece stands for excellence, innovation and especially for sustainability. With a length of 58 meters, a beam of 38m, a hosting capacity of 12 guests (with 280 square meters available for each vacationer!) with and 20 crew members, the main changes with others (outdated) yachts, are that WHY is built with sustainable materials and hosts renewable energy systems. No use of rare woods (such as teak) and of polluting paint is promised. With a triple glazing  to save energy, lights will be regulated according to the sunlight. It will be fueled with both diesel and electricity  thanks to the 900 square meters of thermophotovoltaic panels that will allow an annual equivalent fuel saving of 160 000 liters. The company is also trying to develop a 200 square meters sail that will save 30% of the energy.

 Great initiative. No doubt. Congratulations !

However, we would like to offer three options to the potential buyer … : 

(1) Spend 60 millions €uro for one ship (for the options, add an extra 40 mios €) 

(2) Purchase 100′000 Watalys (a Swiss made water purification portable device) and offer clean water to millions of people in the world.

(3) Combine the two previous options.

 

 

 


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Not so fast – Slow down and Live Better !

The argument for slowing down in virtually every aspect of life

Don Aucoin, The Boston Globe

Rev. John Gibb Millspaugh had big plans for his trip to Utah last month. He was going to be in Salt Lake City to talk at a Unitarian conference about the importance of slowing down to examine the spiritual implications of food choices. Afterward, Millspaugh figured he and his wife, Sarah, would hit as many tourist sites as possible. But at the last minute, he decided to take his own advice: The Millspaughs, who are co-ministers of the Winchester Unitarian Society, narrowed their vacation itinerary to a single bird sanctuary and a couple of national parks in Moab. “When I spend more time in fewer places, and allow myself to have a deeper encounter rather than checking off a checklist of places I’ve visited,’’ said Millspaugh, 35, “I develop a profound awareness of why it was on my list in the first place.’’

While Millspaugh’s conference talk touched on, among other things, the principles of the “slow food’’ movement, when he scaled back his vacation, he was joining another fledgling movement: slow travel.Slowing down, an idea that might have sounded downright un-American not that long ago, is – you should pardon the expression – gathering speed. Slow food and slow travel are part of a broader slow movement that has expanded to slow cities, slow parenting, slow homes, slow marketing, slow reading, slow transportation, slow craft, slow art, slow energy, slow math, slow science, even slow money. “There’s no question that it’s got a foothold in the US,’’ said Carl Honoré, a Canadian journalist whose two books, “In Praise of Slowness: Challenging the Cult of Speed,’’ and “Under Pressure: Rescuing Our Children From the Culture of Hyper-Parenting,’’ have made him a quasi-spokesman for the whole idea. “It’s on the cultural radar.’’

The popularity of slowing down could stem from its implicit challenge to the assumptions that undergird the rat race. After all, when more than seven million Americans have lost their jobs since December 2007, bringing the total number of unemployed to 14 million, the idea of the rat race loses some status. That doesn’t mean that for a nation that’s always been in a hurry, it will be easy to get the iPhone-tapping, Kobe-beef eating, SUV-driving, jet-setting, status-obsessed speedsters to hit the brakes. Americans have operated on the principle that faster is better from the Industrial Revolution to the assembly line to the Jet Age to the Internet to the BlackBerry.

Against such ingrained habits, the slow movement says, essentially: slow down and live better. Honoré calls it “a cultural revolution against the notion that faster is always better.’’ He emphasizes that does not mean shifting from the fast lane to the breakdown lane, but rather finding “the right speed’’ for life’s tasks, and “living life rather than rushing through it.’’ The slow movement urges changes in lifestyles and workplace habits that move away from multitasking, competition, and compulsive consumerism. The end result, advocates say, will be better physical and mental health, and more social interaction that can tighten bonds between individuals and their communities. The movement’s guiding precept is this: Savor experiences rather than marking them off your mental checklist before racing on to the next thing. “Once you get this simple idea in your head,’’ Honoré says, “it affects everything you do: sex, parenting, exercise, travel, design, food, medicine, you name it.’’ Slow food, for example, means taking the time to prepare meals with fresh food from local sources rather than gobbling fast-food or having rare sea bass shipped from halfway around the world, and then taking the time to appreciate both the taste of the food and the companionship with family and friends. Slow parenting means that mom and dad let their kids be kids rather than turn childhood into a pressurized competition on the fast track toward academic success. The design principle of slow cities can be summarized as more open space, fewer cars, more pedestrians. Slow money’s aim is to, in the words of the Brookline-based Slow Money Alliance, “reconnect investors to that in which they are investing and to the places in which they live.’’ “A year ago people would have just laughed, saying there is no such thing as money that is too fast,’’ said Woody Tasch, chairman and president of the alliance, a network of investors and entrepreneurs who support small, independent, local enterprises. But now, Tasch said, investors are listening, not laughing. “I’ve been thinking about this for 30 years, but I’ve never had the opportunity to talk about it in public and have it so immediately understood,’’ he said.

The chastened national mood has some slow advocates hoping Americans will turn their backs on the culture of acceleration. “We have been living a very fast life, and it certainly has come back to bite us, with the economic blowup of the past year,’’ says Willow Blish, a leader of Slow Food Boston. “That has made people rethink their lives a little bit more.’’ “This is a crisis triggered by people going way too fast,’’ Honoré says. “Everyone was charging along in a stampede, in pursuit of fast profit. And look at the apocalyptic mess it’s landed us in.’’ The idea, he says, that “progress equals acceleration’’ was already under assault from many younger people who are seeking deeper meaning in their careers and questioning the old notion that he-who-dies-with-the-most-toys-wins. But not everyone is eager to jettison the hare and emulate the tortoise. Wasn’t it the actress and author Carrie Fisher who wryly served up our de facto national motto? “The trouble with instant gratification is that it takes too long.’’ “The historical record shows that people have never opted for slower,’’ says Stephen Kern, author of “The Culture of Time and Space: 1880 to 1918’’ and a history professor at Ohio State University. “The logic of history is driven by speed. And when the economy gets bad, people are doing things as fast as possible because faster is cheaper.’’

Even some analysts sympathetic to the broader goals of the slow movement question whether it can ever fully take hold in the United States. “For some people it’s not going to feel good at all. It will be, where’s my BlackBerry? said Bella DePaulo, a visiting professor of psychology at the University of California Santa Barbara. “I think the slow movement folks will find each other and do their thing and mostly be ignored by everybody else.’’ Or maybe “everybody else’’ will see more people slowing down and feel tempted to join the crowd. Blish, 37, a Pilates instructor and nutritional consultant, says a growing stream of people are tapping into the resources provided by Slow Food Boston, including sessions on how to preserve food from harvest, how to make jam, how to prepare Napolitan cuisine from scratch, and how to make tomato sauce and salsa. Millspaugh, the minister, has found an eager audience in hundreds of congregations across the country for an “ethical eating’’ study guide that illustrates how changing to a “slow’’ approach to eating can align with their values by, for example, embracing organic food and cutting down on “resource-intensive’’ food types like meat. Tasch says a “slow money’’ approach that created investment strategies for valuable local institutions could benefit renewable energy projects, education programs, and even the struggling newspaper industry.

Internationally, the slowness movement is likewise gaining adherents. Geir Berthelsen, founder of the Norway-based World Institute of Slowness, said more corporations in Europe are asking his advice for ways to change how their workplaces function. “The financial crisis is a consequence of a fast society,’’ said Berthelsen. “Too much in the window, and nothing in the stockroom. The focus has been on the end product, not the process. “In a fast company, they are in a firefighting mode. They are reactive; they don’t have time to think,’’ said Berthelsen. “You will have people being creative and inspired if you take away the short-term focus.’’For all its emphasis on slowness, the institute is quick to spot an opportunity: It is branching out beyond its think-tank origins to launch “Slow Production,’’ whose stated aim is to “bring about change within the world of producing goods, foods, and services for people’’ and whose hallmarks are billed as “transparency, simplicity, consciousness.’’ This fall, Berthelsen said, the institute will introduce “Slow Coffee’’ in the United States.

As for Millspaugh, he says his go-slow approach deepened his vacation experience in Utah, and taught him this lesson: “I see more and experience more when I see less, in a way.’’

Don Aucoin can be reached at aucoin@globe.com

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Better life ?

couvhs-2009-3

A great « Hors Série » from Courrier International « La vie meilleure ». Only for the one interest in  Slow Life, Ecology, New Values, No Growth movement, Over-consumption, etc.

And for the one who wants to think again, to reinvent their life and be sustainable change agent.

It’s in french, but articles are picked up from leading magazines from all over our planet.

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Corporate Social Responsibility Education at Geneva University.

AAAACSR

If you really want to make a change, be educated on Corporate Social Responsibility and enroll to the 2010 session starting January 2010.

The Certificate of Advanced Studies in Corporate Social Responsibility is organised by Geneva University in conjunction with MHC International Ltd. It addresses the needs of professionals in private companies, NGOs, International organisations and Governments who are currently involved or would like to be involved in CSR and/or who wish to make the concept of CSR applicable in their institution or companies. More news at www.corporateresponsibility.ch

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Is There A Future For Sustainable Luxury?

In a recent conference in Geneva, Adam Werbach, Global CEO of Saatchi & Saatchi S and widely known as one of the foremost experts in sustainability, made some interesting comments on initiatives that he’s conducting with several companies. He defended a position where sustainability is not only about “green products or behaviours” but rather organizing the long-term profit of a company in a responsible way through unstable times. Initiatives related to environmental issues are one aspect of the global picture.

He defined sustainability around 3 core pillars:

- Transparencyor sharing information about the business, the strategy, the activities of a company in order to support problem solving with the outside world.

Engagement...building collaborative relationships with employees, consumers and customers.

- Networkor using the network of clients, suppliers or other stakeholders to promote and expand effectively sustainability.

We may ask ourselves 2 critical questions:

(1) What will be the expectations of luxury products’ consumers when sustainability takes much more weight in the decision making process for this product category?

(2) How luxury industry could anticipate this trend?

There are already some interesting initiatives which could help to define the critical success factors.

From quality to respect

Genuine luxury is founded on heritage and “savoir faire”. It promotes the value of respect: respect of the raw material, respect of the work and time required to produce the product, respect of the client who’s going to purchase and finally respect of the brand by the client. This drives the quality momentum which is a core component of sustainability. Hermes is a good example of a brand which has kept alive its core values while innovating and expanding its territory.

Luxury billboards, here in China, were banned of developing countries because of political issues


Luxury brands are more and more available and visible in countries where a significant part of the population lives under the level of poverty. The marketing and communication  approach in such countries is the same as in mature and well developed countries. As a consequence, politicians and regulators are stepping into the game. The mayor of Beijing  banned luxury billboards because advertisement for luxury products “was not conducive to harmony”.

A large number of companies related to gold and diamond have joined the Council for Jewellery Practices to promote responsible initiatives from mining to retailing.


From communication to engagement

Most of global luxury brands have not yet fully achieved their adaptation to new ways consumers expects brands to build relationships with them (transparency and interactivity).

Wetpoint and Altimeter released in July 2009 an Engagement analysis based on the Top 100 Global Brands done every year by Business weeks. The first luxury brand, Gucci, stands at the 31st position, Rolex 58th and Cartier 77th. The first brand of this ranking, Starbucks, demonstrated interesting best practices combining social responsibility, sustainability initiatives and demonstrated engagement with consumers while keeping business profitability on top of its agenda.

Some major luxury brands and companies have initiated Corporate Social Responsibility programs and even for many years.

Louis Vuitton The Carbon Inventory, Eole project…
Tiffany Sources and mining, collaborative efforts, The Tiffany & Co foundation…
PPR Code of business practices, Corporate Foundation for women’s dignity and rights…
Richemont Responsible Jewellery Council, St Lazarus Association (Jaeger Lecoultre)…

However, these programs are not known by the vast majority of their employees in their stores and are not consequently communicated to their clients. A better involvement of employees in contact daily with clients will help these brands to expand the awareness of their programs and contributions.

From pricing to value

Another dimension is the right balance between price and perceived value. Current economy crisis is a catalyst for underlying consumer trends on transparency and quality of products. Some luxury brands have already integrated sustainability as a core component of their value proposition:

Osklen: a Brazilian fashion brands using fabrics and materials selected with an independent NGO and sourced from Brazil.

Brazilian fashion brand that integrates sustainable products in its producting chain

Linda Loudermilk: a fashion designer considered as a trend setter in a new luxury eco lifestyle.

A fashion designer considered as a trend setter in a new luxury eco lifestyle

Tesla: a sport car’s brand powered by electricity

Sport car's brand powered by renewable energies


These brands are still small but are building momentum, expertise and credibility on sustainability for the years coming.

Luxury industry is most probably at a tipping point where sustainability may represent for its future what was numeric revolution for argentic based photography. Minolta was a well known, premium and international brand. The brand didn’t anticipate (as many others) this major shift and its consumer behaviour’s implications. Part of the core “savoir-faire” was acquired by Sony and the brand disappeared. Sustainability may not be major decision criteria for the majority of current luxury goods’ consumers. It will be one of the top decision making factors within 5 years to 10 years.There are a lot of fruitful initiatives from which luxury brands could build momentum and quick wins…

There is a future for sustainable luxury brands so why not starting today?

Frédéric Baffou

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