In preview, an excerpt from the UNCTAD seminar debriefing on « Redefining Sustainability in the International Agenda » which took place Jan 20-21, 2010 in Geneva.
« The fashion and luxury industries have the strategic potential to shape consumer values and aspirations and to redefine the concept of excellence in a way that goes beyond traditional economic aspects to integrate social and environmental elements.
Luxury production and sustainable biodiversity are not complete opposites; many luxury items were originally crafted by skilled artisans in indigenous communities. They were not made to be disposable, but to last over generations.
CITES has species listed that have gained in economic importance. There is still a struggle to get species on list and in appendices, such as the bluefin tuna, which because of overfishing, will soon become a luxury product. Most industries should be checking the CITES lists for compliance. However, trade in wildlife products that are legally acquired can represent enormous income for local communities; for example, ranching and farming of reptiles have helped to increase species population, like salt water crocodiles in Australia. Such conventions and their quotas are not a burden to business, but allow for species continuation for sustainable business. The trade in species, and not just endangered species, is huge. CITES could work in a way that it becomes a certification system for sustainable trade.
Giving up trade in an unsustainably produced product does not equate to giving up business opportunity; in fact the opposite is true, as consumers become more aware and brand loyalty can diminish if products are seen as unethical. Often, reactive behaviour leads to proactive behaviour on the part of the industry to meet consumer expectations of quality. Luxury product consumption is minute compared to mainstream products, yet it is an aspirational form of consumption that influences the mainstream.
Because luxury operates on a scale much smaller than mass retail, and with higher margins, it is able to handle issues more quickly and effectively, and to drive innovative technologies in sustainable luxury. The luxury industry should achieve excellence in its own operations and supply chains, and thus create new trends, values, and ethics.
Every level of partnership is still necessary to take the agenda forward, including measures such as signing up to sustainability principles of NGOs such as Greenpeace and Rainforest Action Network. One hundred percent traceability and transparency are still among the greatest goals to be achieved. It is clear that the younger generation is driving this transformation….
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